The One I Came For

Florence has a museum with hands-down the best collection of Italian Renaissance art in the world. The museum is called the Uffizi Gallery. If I saw nothing else in Florence, this is what I was coming for. Not just the Uffizi, but one painting in particular.

When I finally got to Florence, I read that you need reservations for the Uffizi, sometimes up to a month in advance. I'm pretty lucky so I thought maybe, just maybe, since I'm just one person I could squeeze in. At my hostel, the owner told me to show up at 7:30, they open at 8:15. I should have no problem getting in. He was right! I was so relieved. I would have considered my trip to Florence a total waste if I didn't get in the Uffizi. I have wanted to see THIS museum for ten years. "Why?", you're asking yourself, right? Well, I'll tell you.

Four reasons. Giotto, Cimabue, Duccio, and last but MOST IMPORTANTLY----Gentileschi! Artemisia, not Orazio!! The first three are 13th century Italian painters who all did their own versions of Madonna and Child Enthroned. They are wonderful examples for the lack of perspective on the cusp of the Renaissance. Gold gilt and huge, these three pieces represent the springboard of the "rebirth" of art and culture. I knew exactly where they are in the galleries before I walked in and headed straight for them. As I entered the room, I got chills! I couldn't believe I was standing in the same room with ALL THREE of them!!!! I thought I was going to throw up. I thought I was going to pass out!!! I didn't want to leave the room!

As I wandered through the many, many galleries of losers like Michelangelo and Boticelli (yes, I saw the Birth of Venus), da Vinci, etc., I saw they had a Durer room, too! I love Durer but that room was disappointing. They really didn't have nuch Durer. I guess I need to go back to Germany for that.

So here's the thing...I have a horrible memory. If you know me, you know this fact. I KNEW that I had to go to the Uffizi although I couldn't remember exactly what it was I wanted to see. After Giotto and Cimabue I really couldn't think straight. Then it hit me. ARTEMISIA GENTILESCHI IS HERE!!!!!!!!!!!

Quick art history lesson: Artemisia was the daughter of a pretty decent artist in late 16th/early 17th c. Italy, Orazio. Artemisia showed a lot of talent as a painter. Even though girls weren't really allowed to paint in those days (not very lady-like, right??) Orazio let her work in the studio of another Italian painter. Well the man ended up raping her and she brought public charges against him (imagine the nerve!). It turned into a nasty public trial where Artemisia was tortured until she told the "TRUTH" about how it never happened.

Now about the painting: Judith Slaying Holofernes is a very common story in art of this era. But the difference is Gentileschi's treatment of the subject. Almost every other Judith I've seen has this dainty little Judith cutting off Holofernes' head like she's slicing bread. There's no power, no emotion. Gentileschi's Judith means business! She and her maid are holding him down after waking him from his sleep. He's trying to struggle against them but Judith is on a mission. Knowing the anger and frustration Gentileschi must have felt toward the man who raped her and the justice system that ruined her, one can imagine how much she needed to express her rage.

I don't know why I have always been so drawn to this painting. I like the style, where it looks like there is a source of light somewhere out of the frame. I like the fact that Artemisia got credit for her work when most women painters were laughed at. I like the fact that she wasn't afraid to show a strong woman doing the job to save her village. I hope you like it, too. It's the one I came for.